When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.
The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.
“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.
It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.
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