Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
